A Desk for the Office

(upbeat pop music) – [Voiceover] My busy season is coming up and this year I wanna be more organized.

I decided I needed a new desk and I wanted to make it out of oak to match my computer desk.

A couple of phone calls later and I wound up at Red Brook Lumber, where Bob had some big quarterdry red oak for the top.

Back in the shop I cutthe lengths I needed to make a five and half foot long top.

Two pieces had a live edge, which I love but I needed to take the bark off.

So I grabbed my draw knife.

They were relativelyflat without any twists so I took them straight to the planer.

If they were twisted Iprobably would've used a router sled to flatten one side first.

After I planed them, I edgedone of the three pieces then took the middlepiece to the table saw.

There's a small area of crotch figuring near the end of the middle section.

I like the character, but the blade had wanderedwhen they milled this and it needed to be cleaned up,so I grabbed my card scraper Time for glue up.

When I'm dealing witheight quarter material I don't use biscuit to loose (mumbles).

There's enough edge grain gluecircles to make a solid join.

Trying to line up biscuitsand super thick boards is a pain if there's any kind of bow.

I like to be able tothrow my weight around and rely on clamp pressure.

That being said, clampinga top with two live edges is a little interesting.

Do it up on blocks, so I can clean up theglue on the underside.

Once the glue dried I cleaned up the seams with a jack plane.

There's some small gaps where I couldn't getgood clamping pressure.

A little glue sawdust andsanding acts as a good filler.

I squared up the endsthen sand into 180 grid.

Time to start on the base.

It's all cabinet construction, so I laid out my cut list beforehand.

I'm using three quarter inch oak plywood.

Plywood is expensive soit's always a good idea to plan for as little waste as possible.

I'm making cuts for the baseas well as some upper cabinets I'll make for a future project.

I'll link this diagram in the description.

I drilled some pocket holes in the underside of the bottom pieces to attach the bottom to the sides.

I want the back panel to behidden so I used a rabbeting bit in the router from theback of the side panels.

The bottom panel sits threequarters of an inch high on the sides so they'll beflush with the face rings once they're mounted.

I used corner clamps tohold the pieces in place while I used glue and pocket hole screws.

Corner clamps aren't necessarybut they really help.

Next I attached the frontstretcher flush with the top.

Then I attached the back stretcher flush with the rabbeted back edge.

Some 90 degree corner blockshelped to keep it square.

I used quarter inch birchplywood for the back panels using glue and finish nails to secure it.

Now that the carcasses weredone it was time to move on to the face frames.

I was using four quarter white oak because I had somereally special white oak for the door fronts.

I would've made the topout of white oak too but no one around hadanything for picking up.

Once I ran it through the cleaner, I ran one edge through the joiner, and then I ripped it intoone and five eighth strips.

This gave me an eighth inch of wiggle room in case my carcass wasjust a tad out of square.

I used my crosscut sled tocut two styles and four rails for both cabinets.

When you're working withoak be on the look out for medullary rays.

Really pops when finished.

Once I decided on the layoutfor the drawer placement I transferred those linesacross all of the stiles so the cabinets would be identical.

Then marked the center of each rail.

I used the biscuit joinerto cut slots on my marks.

Then I used face framebiscuits and glue and clamps to assemble the frames.

I pulled diagonals to make surethat everything was square.

After using the Orbo sander on the faces, I hand sanded off all the sharp edges just to break the edge.

I chose my favorite show sidethen attached the face frames using glue and finish nails.

I thought I'd try outGeneral Finishes Arm-R-Seal for the first time.

Even though you'll neversee the underside of the top I put a couple coats on it,so hopefully it won't react to humidity changes differentlyas the seasons change.

I learned it's best toapply really thin coats.

After about four orfive coats I attach some three quarter inch spacers toattach the drawer slides to on the inside of the cabinets.

Best way I found to attach drawer slides is to separate the slidesand cut some scrap to length to rest the slide arm inthe front and in the back.

Three drawers per cabinetequals three pairs of scrap.

I used half inch birchplywood for the door boxes.

My slides have a half inchprofile so I made the boxes an inch narrower thanthe face frame opening.

The height isn't asimportant, I made the drawers five eights shorter to giveme a little wiggle room on the top and bottom.

The bottom drawer was a tight fit.

The stock for the drawerfronts was only so big and the drawers needed to be deep enough to fit file folders.

My solution was to nailthe quarter inch bottoms on instead of sliding theminto a data before nailing the back of the drawers on.

It's not ideal drawer box construction but it gave me a little extra depth.

Then I mounted the otherpart of the slide to the box.

I measured roughly to the middleof the already mounted half of the slide then marked thatmeasurement on the boxes.

I attached the slides usingthe holes that allowed for vertical adjustmentso I could fine tune it once in place.

I found some really cool curly white oak for the drawer fronts.

Some of the pieces had a live edge and I thought that tiedin well with the top so I dry fit those first, thencut the middle pieces to fit.

Check out that insane grain.

I mounted my slides back a little since I was doing overlay doors,so I put a 2×4 behind them and mounted the front.

I used hot glue to get the placement ofthe fronts just right then I pre-drill and screw them from the inside of the drawer.

I found some antique brass poles but their hardware wasn't long enough so I used a small bit tomake a placement of the poles then used the large bit to remove some material on the inside then used the appropriatesized bit in the front again to mount the poles.

Then all I had to do wasset it up in the office.

This is was a really cool project, I'm so excited for the way it turned out.

I think it looks great in the office.

Thanks for watching, guys.

Source: Youtube

Related Post to A Desk for the Office